1. January and February — the quiet, dry months
Lowest water demand of the year, but also the driest stretch. Established plants still need occasional deep watering; new plantings need the full schedule.
- Excellent working weather for larger projects and installations
- Watch for the rare cold snap — cover tender tropicals overnight, uncover in the morning
- Do not fertilise yet; wait for growth to resume
- Plan spring projects and order stock for anything you want finished before the heat
Seasonal careCare timed to Miami seasons
2. March and April — waking up
- First fertiliser application as growth resumes. Slow-release with micronutrients — see the fertilising guide
- Structural pruning on most shrubs before the growth flush
- Check every irrigation zone. This is the driest stretch and the time systems are most tested — fix problems now, not in June
- Refresh mulch to three inches before the heat arrives
- Still comfortable working weather for bed preparation
3. May and June — plant now
The best planting window of the year. Rainfall does much of the establishment watering for you, which is the single easiest way to improve a new planting’s odds.
- Plant. Early in the wet season for maximum benefit
- Complete storm preparation before 1 June — thin dense canopies, remove dead wood, clear drainage. See the hurricane guide
- Second fertiliser application in late spring
- Reduce irrigation as rain takes over. Continuing a dry-season schedule through daily rain drowns new planting
4. July and August — heat and water
- Third fertiliser application midsummer
- Watch drainage. Low spots holding water will show now, and that is useful information
- Fungal watch. Improve airflow where you can, avoid evening watering, remove affected material
- Stay alert during storm season. Move containers indoors when something is named; do not prune heavily or fertilise with a storm approaching
- Planting is still possible with attentive watering, though the heat is hard on both plants and people
5. September and October — the transition
- Final fertiliser application in early autumn. Stop after this so soft new growth is not pushed into cooler months
- Assess storm damage. Reset anything leaning within days, not weeks. Prune torn wood back cleanly
- Wait before removing anything defoliated — much of it releafs
- Resume irrigation as rainfall drops away. This transition catches people out every year
- Good secondary planting window as the heat eases
6. November and December — dry season returns
- Irrigation matters again. Deep and infrequent, not brief and daily
- No more fertiliser until late winter
- Excellent conditions for installation work — comfortable temperatures and predictable weather
- Light structural tidying is fine, but save significant pruning for spring
- Plan for the year ahead while the yard is stable
Planning a project? Tell us when you want it finished and we will tell you when to start. Get in touch.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to plant in Miami?
May and June, at the start of the wet season, so natural rainfall assists establishment. You can plant year-round in Miami-Dade with consistent watering.
How many times a year should I fertilize in Miami?
About four light applications — late winter, late spring, midsummer and early autumn. Stop after early autumn so soft growth is not pushed into cooler months.
When should I prune in Miami?
After flowering for flowering species, and structural pruning in early spring before the growth flush. Complete canopy thinning before 1 June rather than during storm season.
Do I need to water in the Miami wet season?
Established plants rarely need supplemental water from May to October. New plantings still do, but reduce the schedule for rainfall and watch for waterlogging.