1. What our soil does
Miami-Dade is largely sand over limestone, which creates two problems at once.
Sand does not hold nutrients. Apply a heavy dose and much of it moves past the root zone with the next rain — you have paid for fertiliser heading toward the water table.
Limestone raises pH. In alkaline soil iron and manganese become chemically unavailable. The nutrients are present but the plant cannot take them up.
Both point to the same answer: smaller amounts, more often, with micronutrients included.

2. A practical schedule
- Late winter / early spring — first application as growth resumes
- Late spring — second
- Mid summer — third
- Early autumn — final. Stop after this so soft new growth is not pushed into cooler months.
For newly planted stock, wait about two months. A new plant is building roots, and pushing top growth too early stresses it.
3. What to buy
Look for a fertiliser formulated for Florida palms and shrubs rather than a generic all-purpose product. What matters:
- Slow or controlled release — feeds over weeks rather than flushing through in one rain
- Micronutrients included — iron, manganese, zinc, magnesium. Generic fertilisers commonly omit these.
- Moderate nitrogen. High-nitrogen lawn fertiliser on shrubs produces impressive foliage and weak structure.
For iron specifically, chelated forms work far better in alkaline soil than iron sulphate.
4. How to apply it
- Spread from partway out to just beyond the drip line. Feeder roots are concentrated there, not against the stem.
- Keep granules off stems and trunks — fertiliser against bark burns it.
- Water it in immediately so it starts dissolving rather than sitting on dry sand.
- Follow the label rate. Doubling it burns roots and leaches; it does not double results.
5. Common mistakes
- Lawn fertiliser on shrubs. Too much nitrogen, no useful micronutrients.
- One heavy dose per year. Most leaves before the plant uses it.
- Feeding immediately after planting. Wait about two months.
- Assuming yellow leaves mean more fertiliser. Interveinal yellowing on new growth is an availability problem — see yellow leaves.
Not sure what your plant is telling you? Bring or send a photo of the affected leaves. The pattern usually identifies the deficiency. Ask us.
